Method of making shoes



n. F. MCFEELY, nEcn. E. M. SULLIVAN, ADMINISTRATOR.

METHOD 0F MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED IAN. I4, 1918.

Patented Sept. 6, 1921'.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

RONALD F. MCFEELY, DECEASED, LATE 0F BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS, BY E. MARK SULLIVAN, `ADMINISTRAI'OIt, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, 0F PATERSON,- NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION 0F NEW ERSEY.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented sept. e, 19.21.

Original application led May 1, 1916, Serial No. 94,675. Divided and this application led January 14,

1918. Serial No. 211,850,

To all whom t may concern Be it known that RONALD F. MOFEELY, deceased, late of Beverly, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, invented certain Improvements in Methods of Making Shoes, of which the following descrip tion, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to methods of Inakingshoes, the application being av division of a prior application of R. F. McFeely, Serial No. 94,675, filed on May 1, 1916, upon which Letters PatentV No. 1,366,472 were granted on an. 25, 1921. More particularly, the inventionrelates to methods of making shoes `which include in thetoe portion of the upper a stiffening material, this material being usually provided for the purpose of insuring permanency in the shape of the toe of the shoe and of forming what is commonly known as a boX toe. An obj ect of the invention is to provide an improved method forv use in the manufacture of such shoes with a view to economizing time and eX- pense in the manufacture of the shoes and also to avoiding possible injury to the slioe materials. Y

In shoes of the above mentioned character the stiffening ymaterial usually comprises a sheet of some substance which is comparatively stiff and hard at normal temperatures but is capable of being rendered pliable and adhesive by the application of heat, the stiffener blank sometimes being united to the other upper vmaterialsA by the tip seam stitches or, alternately, inserted looselyV between the upper leather and the lining im; mediately prior to the upper shaping Opera'- tion. If the latter course is followed, it is customary to heat the stifl'ener blank to soften it prior to its insertion in the'V shoe; and if the blank is stitched to the other Vmaterials, it is likewise softened prior to the upper shaping operation, usually by turning back the lining and applying heat directly to the stiffener. With the stiifenerthus rendered softl and pliable, the upper materials, in one well known method of manufacture, are

pulled over and fastened to the innersole in pulled over position at the end of the toe and at the sides Of the ball of the shoe, after which the shoe is put aside for a subsequent lasting operation. The time elapsing between the pulling-over and the lasting operations permits the stiffener to harden, and makes it necessary to subject it again to the action of heat in order to soften it before the lasting operation is performed. This method Of procedure is objectionable, not only because of the time Spent in resoftening the stiffener, which is increased by reason of the fact that the upper leather and the lining between which the stiflener lies shield it to a large extent from the action of the heat, but also because it frequently happens that the application of heat to the shoematerials, notwithstanding the exercise of the greatest care, works a permanent injury to the quality of the leather in the upper.

This invention, in oneaspect, provides a method by which the necessity for resof- .tening the stiifener after the pulling-over operation is entirely eliminated. In the manner herein illustrated of practising the method the upper materials are pulled over the last or equivalent shoe form while the toe stiffener is in a softened condition, and before the stiifener has hardened in any material degree the upper is worked into permanently lasted shape around the toe. The inturned portion of the upper materialsmay be wiped down flat upon the margin of the innersole, as in a McKay shoe, or may be shaped to provide an upstanding Harige along the rib of the innerj sole, as in a welt shoe. There the stiffen'er is of such `character as to require heat for vsoftening it, this method avoids the necessity for subjecting the upper materials vto the action of heatv with the consequent danger of injury to the upper leather.

In a further aspect the invention provides for utilizing the sti'ifening material in the toe portion of an upper which is shaped over a last or other shoe form to hold the upperin its acquired shape, thus eliminating the need of any extraneous fastening around the toe prior to the stitching operation whereby the upper is secured to the innersole.y To this end, it is contemplated that the pressure utilized in shaping the marginal portion of the upper materials around the toe will be maintained until the stiifening material has set sufficiently to prevent any substantial reaction of the upper.

Y at the sides of the toe by the tension of the upper transversely of the last as well as to assist in holding the materials agalnsttheir tendency to pull backward over the end of the toe. It will be evident that on welt vshoe work lthe portion of the stiifener which is' shaped into an` upstanding iange performs, in large measure, after hardening, the function of the usual toe binder, and the tacks, when used, perform with respect to the hard stiffener flange a function similar to the function of the tacks commonly used to anchor the ends of toe binders.

Vhile it is contemplated that the novel method herein disclosed may be carried out in various ways, apparatus convenient for use in the practice of the methodas applied for example to the pulling-over and lasting of uppers is shown in the patent granted on the application of which this application is adivision, and for the purpose of pointing out more fully one way in which the invention may be practised the accompanying drawings show mechanism including portions of the machine illustrated in said patent.

In the drawings, Y

Figure l illustrates one way of softening the toe stiffener blank either before or after itis incorporated in the shoe.

Fig. 2 shows the upper of a welt shoe, in-V cluding the heated and softened toe stiifener, while held in pulled-over condition.

Fig. 3 illustrates the'manner of vlasting the toe portion of the shoe and vof holding the upper materials in lasted position to permit the stiifener to harden. y c

Fig. 4 shows how the edge of the upper materials may be trimmed in the usual way while the materials are retained in lasted position by the hardened toe stiffenenand Fig. 5 shows the toe portion of a welt shoe made in accordance with the method of this invention as it appears prior to the operation of stitching the upper to the inner-sole,

this ligure illustrating also the use of tacks at the sides ofthe toe part.

In Fig. l is shown a heating device 2 havening material previously. formed in the required shape to adapt them for use in the toe portion of shoes.VV` These stiffener blanks 'need not differ in composition from blanks such as have been commonly usedlieretofore in box toes, the composition being such as to render the stiffener hardA and resilient at normal temperatures while permitting it to become pliable and adhesive when subjected to the action of heat. The stiifeners on the top of the heating device 2 are softened by the heat and are maintained in their softened condition ready for use. The heating device 2 in the construction shown is also adapted for alternative use Vto soften a stiffener which has already been stitched in between. the upper leather and the lining of the assembled upper materials of a shoe, the device having lateral openings each adapted to receive the toe portion cf a last together with the lining portion 'Z1 of the shoe while permitting the upper leather c and the stiffcner blank a to be positioned over the top of the device with the stiffener directly over the openings 6. Devices of this character are well known, and have the advantage that the stiifener may be subjected to the required degree of heat without danger ofdamaging the upper. K l r fVhen a shoeV is to be pulled over, the operator may take one of the heated-and softened blanks a from the heating device 2 andinsert it in the usual way between the upper leather and the liningof the shoe, or iftie work comprises upper materialsV inwhich the stifi'ener blank is permanently united to the other parts, the last and the assembled upper materials will be taken from the position with respect to the heating device in which they are illustrated in Fig. l. The

work may then be presented to a pulling- Y While the upper materials are held at the end and the sides of the last in their tensioned condition and before thestiener has had time to cool and harden in any material degree, the work is presented to lasting mechanism comprising toe embracing wipers 10 which assume control of the tensioned upper and wipe the materials over Vthe margin of the innersole .on the bottom of the last. In the case of a welt shoe, as shown for example in the drawings, the wipers crease the upper materials into the angle be- Y dependent upon the use of an tween the feather and the rib of the innersole and shape them into an upstanding flange which extends along the rib around the toe portion of the shoe. The wipers are then held in operative position in engagement with the upper along a continuous line around the end and along the sides of the toe while the-stiii'ener is permitted to cool and harden. The time which is required for the stiffener to harden sufliciently to retain the upper in lasted position will vary under different conditions, but where the operatorv is afforded facilities for pulling over another shoe while a shoe previously pulled over is in the lasting mechanism, as in the construction shown in the patent above mentioned, the rst shoe should be ready for removal from the lasting mechanism by the time when another shoe is ready for lasting.

When the upper materials are shaped to provide an upstanding flange, as in the work illustrated Yin the drawings, it will be evident that in the fiange portion, where the stiffener is exposed to the air, the stiifener material will harden more quickly than at other portions of the shoe. When the material in this flange has attained a normal degree of rigidity, the shoe may be safely released from the lasting pressure of the wipers, since the flange will serve as a binder to retain the materials in lasted position. If desired, moreover, either on work provided with such an upstanding flange, or on other kinds of work, one or more tacks d may be driven through the margin of the upper and into the innersole, for example in the vicinity of the tip seam, to assist in holding the materials against transverse and lengthwise strain. These tacks may be driven by tackers 12 such as provided in the machine shown in the patent, 0r they may be driven by hand.

After the lasting operation has. been completed and the stiflening material has cooled and hardened, the edges of the upper may be trimmed in a well known manner illustrated in Fig. 4, and the shoe may then be presented to the sewing machine for securing the upper to the innersole. It will be evident that when a shoe is made bythe method hereink described there is no binding wire extending around the toe portion of the shoe, or other extraneous fastening means such as to interfere in any way with the sewing operation, which is a further important advantage in the use of the method.

Although the novel method is described herein with reference to portions of the machine shown in the patent granted on the application of which this application is a division as affording means convenient for use, in `practising the method, it will be readily understood that the method is not particular machine or apparatus. Furt ermore, it

should be understood that, except where re- Yquired by the context, the invention is not limited to a series of steps performed in the precise order in which they' are named in the claims.

Having explained the nature of the invention and set forth fully how it may be practised, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

l, That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in pulling over a last both lengthwise and laterally the toe portion of an upper including stiffening material which is normally hard but has been temporarily softened, after the upper has been thus pulled at the end and the sides of the toe and before said stiffening material has had time to harden, working' the pulledover upper into permanently lasted position around the toe, maintaining the lasting pressure until said stiifeningl material has substantially hardened, and then releasing the upper from said pressure and utilizing the Stiffening material to hold the upper in lasted shape.

2. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in pulling over a last and holding in tensioned condition at the end and the sides of the last the toe portion of an upper including material temporarily softened as by heat, then before said stiiening material has had time to harden wiping the margin of the uper over the feather of the innersole and creasing it into the angle between the feather and the rib of the innersole to form an upstanding flange around the toe, maintaining on a substantially continuous line around the toe pressure directed toward both the feather and the rib of the innersole until the stiffening material has substantially hardened, and

then releasing the upper from said pressure.

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in pulling over a last the toe portion of an upper including stiffening material which is normally hard but has been temporarily softened, working the pulled-over upper into lasted position around the toe while said stiifening material is still soft, maintaining the lasting pressure on the toe portion of the upper along a continuous line around the end and along the sides of the toe until said material has hardened sufliciently to retain the lasted shape, and then releasing the shoe from said pressure and utilizing the stiifening material to hold the upper in lasted position free from any extraneous fastening around the end of the toe.

4. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in pulling over a last the toe portion of an upper including stiffening material which is normally hard but has been temporarily softened, working the lli;

pulled-over upper into lasted position around the toe before said stiffening material has lhad time to harden, fastening the upper to ing shoes which consists in pulling over aY last the toe portion of an upper including stiflening material rendered pliable and adhesive as by heat, molding the margin of the upper inwardly and shaping it to form an upstandinff flange around the toe While said stiffening material retains the heat that rendered it pliable for the pulling-over opera tion, maintaining the molding pressure until the stiffening material has hardened sufficiently to retain theupper in lasted position around the toe and then releasing the upper from said pressure and 'utilizing the stillening material to hold t-heupper in lasted shape.

6. That improvement in methods of malring shoes whirh consists in pulling over a last the toe portion of anupper including between the vamp and the lining stiflening material rendered pliable and adhesive, working the margin of the upper into lasted position over the innersole and shaping it while the stiftening material is still pliable to form an upstanding flange extending around the'toe in a smaller curvature than the Vedge of the toe, holding the upper in lasted position by pressure applied on a continuous line'around the toe until the stiffening matc-Y rial in said upstanding flange has set su'liiciently vto retain the upper materials in lasted position around the toe, and then releasing the shoe and utilizing said flange as a binder to hold the upper in lasted position free from any extraneous 'fastening around the end of thetoe.

7. That improvement in methods o'l'j malring shoes which consists in pulling over a last the toe portion of an upper including stifening material rendered pliable and adhesive by heat, working the margin of the upper into lasted position over the innersole while the stiffening material is still pliable and shaping it to form an upstanding flange extending around the toe on the shoe bottom, holding the upper in lasted position by pressure applied along a continuous line around the toe while permitting said stilfening material to cool and harden, tacking the upper to the innersole at the sides of theftoe portion, and then releasing the shoe from said aressure and utilizing the stifieninv material,

to hold the upper in lasted position 'free from any extraneous fastening around the end of toe.

8. That improvement in methods of maltL ing shoes which V'consists in introducing between the toe portion of theV vamp and the material to retain the upper in lasted posi-V tion `free from anyV extraneous fastening around the end of the toe.

9. That improvement in methods of maliing shoes which consistsin shaping about a form the toe endportion of an upper, including stiffening material rendered temporarily, pliable, and while saidy stilfening material is in a pliable condition working the marginal portion of the'upper inwardly Vover the'form andshaping it to produce an upstanding flange around the toe adaptedl for attachment to the rib of an innersole, main-V taining theshaping pressure on the lupper while permitting said stiffening material to set, and then releasing the upper from said pressure and utilizing the stiffening material to hold the upper Vin its acquired Vshape prior toVV attachment of said upstanding flange to the rib of an innersole.

l0. That improvement in Vmethods of making V.shoes which consists-in Vshaping about a form the toe end Y portion of an upper, including stiflening material whichV produce an upstanding flangearound the toeadapted for attachment to the rib of an innersole,maintaining the shaping pressureV on the marginal portion of the upper along a substantially continuous line around the toe until the Ystiifeningmaterial in said flange has become substantially hard,and then releasing theY upper from said pressure and utilizing said flangeV as a binder to assist in holding the'upper in Vits acquired shape'free from any fasteningaround the end Yof the toe prior to attachment of said flange to the rib of an innersole."

1l. That improvement in YmethodsY of making 'shoes which consists in shaping about a last the toe end portion'of an upper including stiffening material rendered temporarily pliable, and while said stiffening material is in a pliable condition working the marginal portion of the Yupper inwardly over the 'featherY of VanV innersolefon the Ylast llO to form a lange upstanding against `the rib of the innersole around the toe, maintaining the shaping pressure on the upper against the feather and the rib of the innersole While permitting said stfening material to harden, and then releasing the upper from said pressure and utilizing said flange as a binder to assist in holding the upper in lasted position free from any extraneous fastening around the end of the toe.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specication.

Administrator 0 ceased. 

